I escaped for a few days last week to travel through parts of rural
England with Irish links, not always obvious, even to the most discerning
tourist. My first stop was in the
beautiful town of Steyning, just a few miles north of Brighton. It’s a pretty place, with a very active local
society which has published an excellent conservation area guide, illustrative
of the town’s history and its architecturally important buildings. The society was formed in 1963 by locals with
an appreciation of their heritage and since then the society has held a
watching brief on local planning applications, with a view to preserving the
essentials without unduly affecting progress.
Steyning has two important Irish connections, both strangely enough centered
on the same street in that West Sussex town.
Church Street is the location of Chantry House where W.B. Yeats lived
for the last two years of his life. Just
a short distance away at No. 2 Church Street is Gordon House where in the
Registrar’s Office Charles Stewart Parnell married Kitty O’Shea in 1891. The house bears a plaque commemorating that
event which regrettably led to Parnell’s political downfall.
My next stop was Bronham in Wiltshire, the home for 35 years of
Ireland’s poet and celebrated bard Thomas Moore. Moore’s link with this tiny scattered village
was due solely to his friendship with Lord Landsdowne, owner of nearby Bowood
House and whose son, the fifth Earl will be forever associated with the
Luggacurran evictions of the 1880s.
Moore, who married Bessy Dyke, an actress whom he met in Kilkenny,
had lost two children before moving to live in a rented house, still called
Sloperton Cottage, just a short distance from Bromham. His wife who was an Anglican and Moore who
was a non practising Roman Catholic had three further children while living in
Sloperton Cottage. Tragically those children would in time die before their
parents.
Moore spent 35 years in Bronham where he died in 1852. He was buried in the cemetery attached to the
local Anglican Church where two of his children, Anastasia and John, had
already been buried. His last son Thomas
died while serving as an Army Officer in Africa in 1846 and he is buried there.
On arrival at Bronham I was fortunate to make contact with the local
historian Dennis Powney who generously gave of his time and a most interesting
account of Thomas Moore and the Bronham connection. The gravestone which lies over the remains of
Thomas Moore, his wife Bessy and two of their children was augumented in 1907
with an 18 foot high Celtic cross which today towers over Moore’s last resting
place. It was erected at the behest of
the then Rector, with financial contributions from both sides of the Irish Sea.
The historic and beautiful Church of St. Nicholas, the Parish Church
of Bronham, is part Norman, with additions from the 13th and the 15th
century. The east window of the chancel
is dedicated to Moore’s widow Bessy who died on the 4th of September
1865, 13 years after her husband.
Donated by her nephew Charles Murray the window was the work of the firm
of William Morris to the design of Sir Edward Burne-Jones. The association of these two famous names
with the window is in itself sufficient to attach great significance to what is
a wonderful example of 19th century glasswork.
Thomas Moore is commemorated by a stain glass window on the west
side of the nave erected in 1879. It was
financed by American admirers of the bard and was the work of Cambridge artist
W.H. Constable. The inscription
underneath the window reads: ‘This window
is placed in this church by the combined subscriptions of two hundred persons
who honour the memory of the poet of all circles and the idol of his own,
Thomas Moore’.
Later that afternoon I visited Sloperton Cottage where Thomas Moore once
lived, but confined myself to viewing the exterior of the building as the
present owners were absent. It is I
believe little changed from the time over 160 years ago when it was Moore’s
residence.
One of Thomas Moore’s principal benefactors was the 4th
Marquis of Landsdowne who lived in Bowood House, not far from where the Irish
man lived. Indeed it was the ready
access allowed to Moore to visit and use Landsdowne Library which prompted
Thomas Moore to move to Bronham. I
visited Bowood House later that same day and regretfully found no reference,
that I could see, to Thomas Moore, in that part of the house open to the
public. The original huge mansion which
was Bowood House in Thomas Moore’s time was demolished in 1955 and a smaller house
adopted to meet the needs of the 8th Lord Landsdowne. If evidence of Thomas Moore was absent from
Bowood House, so was any reference to Landsdowne’s Irish estates in
Luggacurran, which from 1886 witnessed wholesale evictions which drove many of
those evicted to come to live in the town of Athy.
Thomas Moore, Charles Stewart Parnell and W.B. Yeats have all left
their mark on different parts of rural England, prompting this Irish man at
least to seek out the links which bind the Sassenach and the Gael.
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