1909 in Athy

The All Ireland hurling final Sunday found me in the unusual setting of a Cork city household as I sat down to watch the 2022 senior hurling final between Kilkenny and Limerick. Both the setting of my viewing (in rebel territory) and the date of the final perhaps made me a little unsettled, but not as unsettled as the result left me after an enthralling final. There has been some debate in the media about the bringing forward of the date of the hurling final in the sense that the summer has been truncated without the usual August visit to Croke Park. However, delving into the history of All Irelands it was not unusual to find the senior hurling final played at unusual times of the year. The agricultural grounds in Geraldine Park Athy hosted on 27th June 1909 a replay of the All Ireland senior hurling final between Dublin and Tipperary. Athy was selected as the location for the replay as one of the few grounds in Leinster that was fenced at the time and it hosted a crowd of almost 7,000 people. Another reason why the venue was chosen was that Dublin had refused to play either in Thurles or Kilkenny city, while Tipperary were amenable to play at either venue and thus Athy was the compromise choice. Tipperary won the game comfortably by 3-15 to 1-5, but although the final was held in 1909, it actually was the 1908 championship. At the previous instalment of the final which had been held in Croke Park on 25th April, the score ended up Tipperary 2-5 and Dublin 1-8. A journalist reporting on the match described Athy as a ‘cosy town’ and that ‘The ground under the Agricultural Society was also in perfect order with the sod as lively as the most fastidious hurler could wish’. It led me on to reflect as to what a visitor to Athy would have found here in 1909 and what some of the personalities from the town were doing at the same time. The Post Office in Duke Street which is such a fundamental part of our streetscape was under construction in 1909. It was not without controversy when it was revealed that the building contractor engaged to build the Post Office was using Tullamore brick in its initial stages rather than the Athy brick, readily available from the brickyards just outside Athy. Following representations from Athy Urban District Council the postal authorities agreed that only Athy brick would be used thereafter in the building. In that same year the Church of Ireland parochial hall on Church Road was also constructed, designed by the architect Speirs & Co. of Glasgow. Athy Ladies Hurling Club was noted as organising a reunion on 20th July, while a Miss Campbell was listed as Club Captain and a Miss Tierney as Secretary. Older readers will remember the Athy Social Club Players who put on many plays in the Town Hall and the Social Club in St. John’s Lane in the 1940s and 1950s. Their 1951 production was Lennox Robinson’s play, ‘The White Headed Boy’. In 1909 Lennox Robinson had staged his first play in the Abbey Theatre in Dublin following on from which the poet W.B. Yeats offered the inexperienced Robinson the post of manager of the theatre. In Dublin, in November the Kilkea born explorer, Ernest Shackleton, could be found giving a lecture at the National University about his recent exploits in the Antarctic and his dash to reach the South Pole. 1909 was also the year that John Vincent Holland, a former pupil of Clongowes Wood College, after studying veterinary medicine for three years, left Athy to try his fortune in South America where at various times he worked as a rancher and on the railways. Of course he later returned to Athy in 1914, joined the British Army and was awarded a Victoria Cross for his exploits in the Somme campaign of 1916. Another Athy man, slightly younger than John Vincent Holland, was Sydney Minch who while John Vincent Holland was heading across the Atlantic, Minch was making the shorter journey to Clongowes Wood College for the first of his three years of study there. Like Holland he would join the British Army in the Great War, serving with the Connaught Rangers and fighting at the 3rd Battle of Ypres. Returning from the war he took an active role in public life, serving as a Cumann na nGael T.D. from 1930 to 1938, as well as being a member of Athy Urban District Council and Chairman of the Athy branch of the British Legion. Although the defeat of Kilkenny in this year’s All Ireland senior hurling final was a huge disappointment to myself and many others, I can comfort myself with the knowledge that in the 1909 All Ireland senior hurling championship final held in Cork Athletic Grounds, Mooncoin, representing Kilkenny, overcame the club side Thurles, representing Tipperary, with the score of 4-6 to 0-12. This was Tipperary’s first defeat in an All Ireland final and Kilkenny’s fourth victory. Thankfully there have been many Kilkenny successes since then and undoubtedly more to come!

Military activity in and around Athy 1642

News of military activity in and around Athy in April 1642 just months after the start of the Rising in Ulster was the subject of a pamphlet published in London later that same year. The pamphlet of 13 pages, printed by G. Miller for W. Bladen, recorded how the English army set out from Dublin on 2nd April comprising 3,000 foot soldiers and 500 cavalry, all under the command of the Lord Lieutenant General, the Earl of Ormond. On the next day the army marched to Naas entering about 3 miles into County Wicklow ‘burning houses and killing such rebels as they found straggling on the way.’ Having been shot at by rebels in the Castle of Tipper, the soldiers blew up the castle, killing 8 rebels. On April 4th, having burned down some houses in Naas, the English army marched to Kilcullen ‘killing and hanging rebels and burning houses on the way.’ The next day the army set out for Athy, camping overnight near Ballyshannon Castle. This was the home of Colonel Fitzgerald, who was regarded as a rebel, and where it was believed a rebel army of 500 men were in occupation. The English troops having no battering rams left the area for Athy without attacking the castle. On the road to Athy the English army continued to burn houses and kill rebels. They found the greater part of Athy ‘all burned by the Protestants the day before to prevent the rebels, who in great multitudes had entered in and were about to fire the castle/church, and other places, wherein the Protestants to the number of 300 besides children were preserved.’ Sir John Bowen of Ballyadams Castle came to Athy to greet the English army but being suspected of disloyalty was imprisoned. That same day the army marched to Ballyadams Castle where it was claimed Bowen’s wife entertained the officers ‘liberally with ale and cakes,’ but despite this the army on returning to Athy seized and brought with them 200 head of cattle and 100 sheep as the people of Athy were ‘in great distress through want of meat and drink.’ On 7th April ‘George Walker, son of English parents, then Sovereign of Athy with many other rebels being hanged,’ the army, leaving Colonel Crafford’s Regiment behind in Athy, marched to Maryborough. The next reference to Athy following the army’s march into Laois occurred on 12th April. We are told that ‘the Protestants had broken down Maganey bridge to prevent the incursion of the rebels’ and that 700 rebels were repairing the bridge intending to march over it and intercept the English army which was returning to Athy from Maryborough. The rebels were attacked by men from Colonel Crafford’s regiment, killing ‘one or two of the rebels’. The Irish rebels were camped near to Captain Erasmus Burrowes’ house in the vicinity of Maganey, but the English army commander decided not to attack and instead returned to his base in Athy. On 15th April a man named Brocke, ‘an English papist’, with a number of other rebels was hanged in Athy. The number of rebels executed in this way while the army was in Athy was believed to be seventy. After seven days waging war in various parts of Laois the English army regrouped in Athy before marching back to Dublin. They brought with them as prisoners Sir John Bowen, Fitzgerald of Timoga, Richard Grace of Maryborough and Captain Crosby. On their way about 2 miles from Athy Irish rebels numbering it is believed 8,000 foot soldiers and three or four troops of horses, were seen marching in the same direction as the English army, but with a bog between them. This prompted a race between the armies, both of which were anxious to reach firm ground, with the Irish rebels winning the race. We are told that at ‘Black-hale Heath on the lands of Kilrush about 5 miles from Athy and a mile from the Castle of Ballyshannon in the possession of the rebel Colonel Fitzgerald ….. the rebels made a stand ….. with the advantage of two great ditches on each wing, so high that we could see no more than the heads of their pikes.’ The rebels comprised men from counties Kilkenny, Laois, Carlow, Wexford, Wicklow and Kildare, as well as some men from Tipperary and Waterford. Despite their numbers the Irish rebels suffered a costly defeat, with 1,500 men or more killed and the loss of 15 regimental colours and much military equipment. An interesting description of some of the rebel colours captured indicated the religious background to the conflict which had started in Ulster the previous October, with banners displaying Jesus Mary and Joseph, with others of Mary Magdalene and St. Patrick. The English army having claimed the victory marching via Old Connell to the Curragh and then to Naas, before reaching Dublin on 17th April. Their commander expressed the view that the Irish rebels having ran into the woods, bogs and castles ‘will prolong the war and bring us all to ruin unless this summer we are furnished out of England with great store of men and money to maintain garrisons in all places.’ The White Castle in Athy would continue to be garrisoned and the town itself would figure prominently in the Confederate Wars fought on Irish soil as part of the English Civil War which would commence on 22nd August 1642.

Medieval Athy

In last week’s Eye on the Past when referring to Woodstock Castle, I mentioned the relocation to the east side of the river Barrow of the Anglo-Norman village of Athy which was first established on the west bank. This followed a prolonged period during which the Irish chiefs, particularly the O’Mores of Laois, attacked the village which had grown up around Woodstock Castle. Sir John Talbot brought the war into the heartlands of the Irish beyond the River Barrow and having defeated them sought to protect the village from further attacks. We are told that Talbot repaired and mended the bridge of Athy and erected a new tower on the bridge to house a garrison. This tower is generally believed to have referred to White’s Castle and its from the date of the castle’s erection that the gradual evacuation of the medieval village on the west bank is believed to have commenced. Woodstock Castle was by then a Fitzgerald holding and with the adjoining prior of the Canon Regulars of the Holy Cross, commonly referred to as St. John’s Monastery, continued to be the nucleus of the medieval settlement which did extend across the river to where the Dominican Friary was located. In 1434 the citizens of Athy were given the right by virtue of a murage grant to levy customs on persons selling goods in the village to finance the construction of defensive walls. This is the first reference found to murage grants for Athy and it might tend to suggest that the settlement had begun to take shape in its new location on the east bank of the river. Henry VIII in 1515 granted a charter ‘for the greater safety and security of the town of Athy’ which the charter described as lying ‘on the frontiers of the March of our Irish enemies.’ It was not only the Irish who continued to cause problems for the settlers in Athy, for the Silken Thomas Rebellion in 1534 saw the Earl of Ossory attacking Athy and Rheban, destroying both. A little more than 60 years later another Anglo Norman, James FitzPiers rebelled, resulting in further plunder and mayhem in south Kildare. The rebel James was the son of Sir Piers FitzJames of Ardreigh Castle which was burned and destroyed by Feach McHugh’s followers in 1593, resulting in the massacre of FitzJames’ family and servants. The Battle of Kinsale in 1601 resulted in the defeat of the Irish and brought a fragile peace to the settlers’ town of Athy. In 1611 James I granted a new charter to Athy, which despite the earlier charters referenced to ‘the town of Athy’ was now called ‘the village of Athy.’ The new charter created the Borough of Athy which extended one half a mile in ‘a direct line from every side of the Castle commonly called the White Castle in the village.’ This would suggest that a settlement was now firmly relocated in the more easily defended east side of the river Barrow. However, the countryside was to witness the outbreak of war in 1641. The Confederate War which ended after eight years, saw considerable action in and around Athy, with the legendary Owen Roe O’Neill at one time in charge of the White and Woodstock castles. Following the Confederate War which saw Woodstock and the White Castle severely damaged, as was the Dominican Friary, Woodstock was left damaged and vacant. It would remain in splendid isolation on the west bank of the river Barrow until the building of Council houses in its vicinity in the 1930s and later. When the Kildare Archaeological Society members visited Athy recently to view Athy’s medieval buildings I mentioned the society’s visit to Woodstock in September 1892when the local curate, Fr. Carroll, spoke of a Woodstock Castle’s ‘outer court having a fine arch gateway to the north’ which he indicated ‘still remains as does part of the outer enclosure walls.’ Sadly neither features were to be seen during this year’s visit by the Kildare Archaeological Society members. Woodstock Castle with St. Michael’s Medieval Church are Athy’s most important medieval structures which deserve to be protected and preserved. Would Kildare County Council on behalf of the people of Athy consider seeking funding to protect and restore both buildings and at the same time taking all appropriate action to save the White’s Castle. Aughaboura bridge, erected during the Great Famine, was removed last week as part of the Outer Relief Road Project. The dressed stones of the bridge were put in place by a skilled stone mason, assisted by local labourers who found work during the construction of the railway line to Carlow which helped to keep their families out of the Workhouse during the Great Famine. It would be a very fitting tribute to the dead of the Great Famine for these dressed stones to be used for constructing a memorial to Athy’s famine dead who now lie in unmarked graves in St. Mary’s cemetery? FRANK TAAFFE